| Dealing With Feeding and Fevers |
Dealing With Feeding and Fevers
"Feeding" is a misnomer in this connection as one of the most important points to remember when considering the diet of a sick dog is that an animal with a temperature of over 103°F. should not be fed with normal solid food. The less work the digestive organs have to do, the better, and the lack of appetite usually present is nature's way of pointing out that food is not required as long as fever is present. In fact, excessive feeding can prolong the illness and increase its severity.
Fluids are absolutely essential, however, and if the dog will not take them voluntarily they must be given frequently like medicine, a tablespoonful or so at a time. Glucose and boiled water is excellent for this purpose, but not milk as this, although a liquid, is definitely a food. When the temperature has returned to normal a very light fluid diet can be begun, such as milk, beaten-up egg in milk, etc., but any rise in temperature should be a signal for a return to glucose and water. Nervous complications in the virus diseases such as hard-pad are far less likely if this method is adopted, and the animal will recover more quickly as he is not being called upon to deal with quantities of food when unable to profit from them. The fluid intake will help very considerably in elimination of waste products—always very important in feverish illnesses.
Separating Dog Fights
Occasionally one has the misfortune to have one's dog attacked by (or even for it to attack!) another dog. Usually, a few well-chosen words, and a sharp tap on the rump with the lead or stick, will divert the aggressor's attention. However, when animals really start fighting it is not a simple matter to stop them. Do not try to separate them with your hands if a stick or lead is available. A walking-stick is ideal; the handle placed through the collar of the attacker and then twisted so that the collar tightens on the throat will make him release his grip, and when separated he is still well under control. A lead, used as a noose, can also be used for this but is not so effective.
Douching with cold water is also a fairly effective method of temporarily separating fighting animals, although it is not always possible to have a supply of cold water to hand!
Giving An Enema
An enema is not often needed but is sometimes used in constipation and in illnesses where it is inadvisable to give an aperient or purgative by mouth.
To give an enema, place the dog on a table—with large dogs, preferably in a yard—and have a jug containing the fluid at a higher level. Fill the syringe, making sure it is full as an injection of air can be very painful. Vaseline the bone point and insert into the rectum for its whole length (about seven inches). Give the injection slowly, then remove the syringe with a quick, smooth movement. Press the dog's flanks together for a few moments to give the enema a chance to act.
After use, wash the enema syringe in warm, soapy water and rinse in a solution of Dettol and water. It should be hung in a cool place to dry.
An enema consists of an injection of fluid into the bowel, by means of a syringe. For small dogs a straight glass syringe can be used, but for general use the ordinary Higginson's type of rubber apparatus is preferable. For simple constipation only a small injection is needed—for a toy, half a teaspoonful of glycerine mixed with two tablespoonfuls of warm water. For medium-sized dogs double the quantity, and for collie size four times. Soapy water (made from pure soap flakes or Castile soap) can be used instead of glycerine. In the case of a real obstruction —that is, not simple constipation—double the quantity can be given and the enema repeated three or four times.
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